One item on the most recent auction list for the Culinary Historians of Southern California was the preparation of a pre-Carême feast by the organization’s president, Charles Perry. Auction winners Marshall and Joan Fuss and Morris and Nancy Zaslavsky were treated to not only to a good meal but a little history on the pre- and post-Carême table.

Legendary French chef Antonin Carême (1783-1833) is considered the father of haute cuisine and remembered for his service to society’s upper crust in France, England and Russia. He excelled at the elaborate presentation of multiple courses for lavish feasts and such feats as building large, ornate architectural constructions for the table.

So what came before? This is where Charles Perry shone his spotlight, preparing a feast for which, had he been a resident of early 19th century France, he could have found every ingredient he needed on the acreage surrounding his cottage. This meal reflected the sensibilities of a time when the food was rustic, hearty and unfussy, a time when fashion had yet to trickle down to everyday diners.

One note: Charles explained that the dates listed reflect when retired chefs wrote down a lifetime’s worth of culinary secrets, so these recipes were written perhaps several decades after their heyday.

“Paris avant Antonin”

Soup: Potage Maigre Printanière, Menon, 1746
A cream-based soup of salad greens, cucumbers, tiny English peas and herbs. While “maigre” indicates a thin soup, this one was slightly thickened with enough bread crumbs and egg yolks to coat the spoon and stick to the ribs.

Entrée: Poulet au Fromage, Menon, 1746
Chicken breasts simmered in white wine and stock and topped with cheese. The process of cooking the breasts yielded a sauce rich with butter, pan juices, shallot and garlic. Gruyere was typically the cheese of choice for this dish, but Charles elected to use emmental. Alongside the chicken were baked scraps of puff pastry left over from dessert preparation.

Rôti: Eclanche de Cent Feuilles, Dictionnaire Portatif, 1745
A roasted leg of lamb laced with a stuffing of garlic, shallots and mushrooms. The extra stuffing was served on the side.

Macédoine à la Béchamel, Viard, 1820
This mélange of both spring and summer vegetables included peas, beans, carrots, turnips, artichokes and cauliflower, cut into small pieces (a la macédoine, or in the style of Macedonia) and served in a roux-based white sauce.

Dessert: Petits Puits d’ Amour, Viard, 1820
These puff pastries filled with apricot jam are as fancy as this type of meal gets.
Fromage Glacé à la Cannelle, Dubuisson, 1779
Cinnamon ice cream. Cinnamon is probably the only item on this menu’s list of ingredients that would have come from far afield.